From the Cellar – 2006 Barolo $350

Mario Marengo, Barolo Brunate 2006
Azelia, Barolo Bricco Fiasco 2006
Parusso, Barolo Le Coste-Mosconi 2006

The 2006 vintage has been hailed a modern classic, and now at 15 years old, our patience has rewarded us with impeccably balanced wines that are entering what should be a very long drinking window. A hot summer was mercifully tempered by timely rain in August and September before temperatures cooled down towards the end of the growing season, allowing growers to harvest well into October. The vintage combines ripe fruit with firm tannins and serious structure. This trio explores the vintage through the lens of three wineries that, by picking very ripe grapes in the vineyard and utilizing small French oak barriques in the cellar, excel at producing a flashy, opulent style of Barolo that will satisfy your inner sybarite.

Unquestionably one of the best vineyards in La Morra, the Brunate vineyard is known for its enveloping dark fruit and deep notes of balsamic. Mario Marengo ages his Brunate in French oak barriques, one quarter of which are new. The wood is present in the wine’s youth, but with time in the bottle the generous fruit easily absorbs the oak and creates a dark, spicy Barolo accented with flavors like leather, coffee, tar, and licorice.

Bricco Fiasco is a southwest-facing vineyard in Castiglione Falletto that is not as famous as it should be simply because it is surrounded by Grand Cru sites like Monprivato, Rocche di Castiglione, and Villero. But make no mistake, Bricco Fiasco is a special vineyard, and in the capable hands of the Scavinos at Azelia, it can produce stunning wines. Two years in 20% new French oak barriques yielded a wine with dark red fruit, sweet tobacco, and a vein of minerality that is the hallmark of Bricco Fiasco.

Marco Parusso is one of the most progressive winemakers in the Langhe, constantly experimenting and exploring the region’s possibilities. Le Coste and Mosconi are two vineyards in Monforte d’Alba, a village known for producing lush, concentrated Barolos. Parusso picks late and encourages quick, hot fermentations that yield wines with bright, lifted aromatics. The ripe fruit can easily handle vinification in new French oak barriques, which add spice and fine-grained tannins to this intensely hedonistic Barolo.